Gazza

Hi All Approximately 12 months ago I ordered a McHitch from McHitch.com.au after speaking with the owner Joe McGinnes. A week ago did a short trip down to the beach to try out the new tug I had just purchased to tow the van. On arrival back home had a little hitch (pun intended) with the McHitch coupling. On the phone to Joe about the problem. Told Joe what the problem was and in no time he had a solution on how I could fix it, but also stated he would not only send me the new part to correct the issue but would also send the socket to undo the nut and instructions on how to go about it. I just want to mention the good service I received, but would also wish to thank Joe for his assistance in correcting the problem. Thank you Joe. I have no affiliation with the Company, just happy with the great service. Gazza

Thanks Colin, Much appreciated. Gazza

G'day Colin, I to would realy appreciate details of this camp. Although we will not be travelling up there this year (Still working, but retiring next year)we will be making plans to 'do' up north when the time comes in 2013. Have a good Easter trip also for us. Regards, Gazza & Judy.

Thanks Russ for the information. Much appreciated. Gazza

Hi Russ I to am interested in your RO Filter. How do you store it when you are traveling, eg. Do you block up the ends so no water escapes from the filter so the filters do not dry out, or is there some other thing that you do. Would be most interested as I will possibly be purchasing one in the near future. Regards Gazza

Hi Rod Sorry, I may of misinterpreted your post to me. Regards Gazza

Hi Rod Sorry didn't mean to hit a nerve. But I thought we both had the same problem. Re Lifting/bubbling decals. Unfortunately I am unable at present to put my van under cover, so the morning and afternoon sun beats down on the sides of the van. The decals started to bubble so I use to push them back in with my finger. But after 12 months of doing this I figured the best way was to cut a slit in the decal to remove the air, and it appears to have prevented most of the decals for bubbling again. But there are still a few stubborn places where they have not stuck to. Ah well such is life. Got better things to do. Gazza

Hi John, Yes I have the same problem. Mine started to bubble before 6 months. Took the van back down from Rocky at 6 months to have some warranty work done, mentioned the bubbling decals, but alas still have the same bubbling decals. Have put a small nick along where the bubbling is occurring to let the air escape to try and at least get a few more years out of them. Perhaps I should just get them taken off and then no more worries. I think you will find that nearly everyone would be having the same problems with the decals. Some just don't admit it. Regards Gazza

Hi Robert & Jane Thank you for the advice RE silicon. Will do some research at Bunnings later in the week. I was getting a bit worried that I was the only one that had trouble with the combined unit. Regards Gazza

Hi Doris and Rob, I have an ATV with the Thetford toilet/vanity/sink bowl combination in mine. I do not know if Kedron still put this shower/toilet combination in their new vans now. If you do go the combination shower/toilet way, just make sure it is sealed around the edges with sikaflex. Mine was done with white silicon and the beading is now coming away from the plastic combination. The beading is still attached to the wall. I'm a bit worried it will fall off the wall if I take the van on another trip. I have only travelled approximately 8000k's so far and that has been on bitumen. It will be a big job to remove the silicon off the walls and reseal it with the sikaflex. Not looking forwarded to that job I can tell you. Ensure you get it done properly. Like Webby says good luck. While I'm typing this does anybody know which sikaflex would be best to use to reseal the combination.

Hi Robert and Jane, Could you not add a 2 or 3 inch (50/75mm) piece to the bottom. Would work out a bit cheaper. Possibly go for a colour to suit the van or a dark colour to hide the dirt when it sits on the ground.

Hi Russ, Appears that compressor fridges suffer the same fate as 3 way fridges - RE HEAT hanging around for cabinet. Haven't got to the stage of putting insulation around the sides of the fridge, but that will be another project in the future. Hate having warm/cool beers after a looooog days drive. Regards Gazza

Hi all, Forgot to mention I also glued a piece of polystryine on the bottom of the fridge, above the compressor to stop the bottom of the fridge heating up. There's a bit of heat that comes off the compressor when it's working. Regards Gazza

Hi Phil Thank for the wiring sketch. It is much easier to follow than the one I got with the switch. You must have an electrical background or you have been into electrical wiring for some time. Phil what I did was to take out the top vent above the fridge. I then cut pieces of polystryine (spelling) and filled up the cavity from on top of the fridge to the 'ceiling'. You will have to lift the 1st piece and place the second piece under the first. You will also have the cut it in half lengths to fit them in as the pieces will not fit in one whole piece across the fridge. I cut pieces to length and fitted them from wall to wall. If you do not bring the 'ceiling' down the hot air stays on top of the fridge. With the polystryine in place the 'ceiling' is then down to the top of the vent. Hope this makes sense. I then wired in 2 x 80mm computer fans and secured then to the inside of the top vent. I ran the wiring to the side of the fridge and put a common household double switch wall plate, to the inside wall of the van. From there I can turn both the fans on or only one at a time as needed. This was to get rid of the hot air produced by the fridge within the cavity. Another thing I did was to cut pieces of 2mm aluminium to fit on top of the shelves. These are secured by putting 2 small holes (in all corners) in the aluminium and securing it with small zip ties. I did not put any other holes in the aluminium sheeting but looking back I think I could have. Not that it would make much difference. I used the aluminium as a 'cold sink' as opposed to a heat sink. When the fridge and the contents are cold and you open the fridge most of the cold air drops out of the fridge and is replaced by hot air. When you close the door hot air has entered and the air is cooled quicker and the fridge does not take as long to cool down again. I even made up another shelf out of aluminium and put edging on it so I could have another shelf. I have thought about putting in roof batt insulation to the sides of the fridge, but I think that I would need to pull the fridge part way out of the the cavity to get them in. I looked at trying to get something in from the outside but it would be too hard through the opening. So at this stage I and using the fans to get rid of the hot air. Another thing I did was to place a 125mm x 25mm x 2mm (roughly) piece of aluminium under the thermostat 'pipping' where it attaches to the inside of the fridge. In my opinion when the aluminium cools down the thermostat switches off and it does not switch on again until the aluminium strip heats up. I think it gives a more stable temperature range than when the 'pipping' is connected to the plastic side of the fridge. Hope this helps. I have not taken any temps, but I do have a wireless weather thingy, and I can put 2 x remotes into the fridge and it will tell me at what temp. the fridge or freezer are at. Mainly use it to make sure the fridge is still working and I am not going to lose any food. Gazza

Hi Phil, I am in the process of 'copying' your fridge fan setup. Have bought the Twilight Switch from Jaycar, but am having trouble trying to get my head around the wiring diagram that came with the switch. Sorry not very electrically minded, although I can follow a sketched wiring diagram. Do I have to do a separate circuit, one for the power side and one for the fan side or can I just join the 2 circuits together off a common positive and negative. I realise that I have to join the power side up to positive and negative power, but can I join the fan side of the switch to the same positive and negative. Obviously the power would have to pass through the fan first then back to the negative terminal. Hope your following what I am trying to say. Would be really appreciated if you could somehow put a sketched wiring diagram of your setup for me to follow. Regards Gazza