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TonyH

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Everything posted by TonyH

  1. Nice job.... only trouble is it would be to high for my 'cook' to use so I would have to hang out & retrieve the washing, can you design something that is height adjustable???.... Copy of previous post from Feb 2009 just another way of making a clothes line. Posted 04 February 2009 - 10:43 P I knocked up this clothes line in 15 minutes at a cost of about $6 all up it fits in the awning arms & under cover, next to the awning roller. It is extremally strong, light & durable. Takes up no room when rolled up & stored in a locker or cupboard. When Wendy was out of the kitchen, I went to the draw & grabbed an old nylon/poly cutting board. I then disappeared into the shed with the 'old' board, after measuring the (internal) profile at its widest point of the awning arm from memory approx 6cm. I then cut two strips from the board approx 6cm x 20cm, after cutting the strips,(hacksaw) clean up any swarf or dags with a file or grinder. Then place the two pieces together (in a vice for safety) & drill two 10mm or 3/8 holes, centrally & in from the end by about 3 or 4cm. Once you have done this check the 'strips' for correct fitment in the awning arm. Insert the strip into the open section of the arm at an angle so one side of the strip fits into the widest section/profile of the arm, then let the top edge of the strip 'fall into' the arm. So now the strip is sitting in the awning arm....OK....now lift the strip up squarely & it will 'lock'into the profile of the arm. Then carry out any nescessary triming to the strips, when you are happy the strips fit & lock OK we then thread the required a length of 10mm poly cord through one of the strips then pass one end of the cord through through the other strip & tie a knot in it. The strip with the cord looped through it place it in one of the awning arms & 'lock in' pull the cord through that strip & walk towards the other arm with the other strip & place it in that arm & lock it in, pull on the cord & tighten it, Then hold the cord up to the spare hole in that strip, with the cord tight cut the cord so you will have sufficent cord top pass through the hole & tie a knot in it. Presto....one cheap & very easy clothes line. With these instructions you with end up with two line to hang your clothes, there is no reason why you couldnt cut longer strips & put more holes in the strips, ending up with more lines, but possibly you may have possible problems 'slack & taught' lines making fitting (the strips) in the awning arms difficult. To remove the strips form the arm, press down on one edge of the strip towards the wide profile & the strip will fall out.....to easy. I suggest you use 10mm or 3/8 poly cord as it will have minimal stretch, also the pegs will have a thighter grip on the clothes. I hope this is of some assistance. See you down the road. :thumbsup:
  2. Hi David, Very nice looking truck...... I now know why Woolies croceries cost so much
  3. Hi Nev, I have fitted a Manta exhaust system, cats still fitted 1 large but smaller than original muffler no resonator. Very nice note, no drowning when towing & fell it enhances/reduces fuel consumption. Currently in Tassie with van steady throttle towing returning 18.6 lph according to scan gauge, no van highway speed light throttle as low as 8.3 lph again according to scan gauge. Very happy with performance & towing capability. Previous tow vehicles I had a locally manufactured brake control unit was 'ok' but on this new tug I have fitted a Tekonsha P3 controller, SO HAPPY with the increased braking performance & peace of of mind it gives you when towing really reduces driver fatigue. I know you only asked about the fuel consumption but I just had to rave about the brake controller!!!!
  4. Hi Nev, If you want to drain the water tanks why not loosen the clamps holding the outlet hoses on the lower edges of the tanks & carefully remove the hoses allowing the tanks to drain, I say carefully remove because if you are to heavy handed you can possibly break off the 'snout' on the tank which would probably mean a new tank. I personally have never worried about draining the tanks between use (sometimes extended periods) as the tanks are black & under the van the chances of the water going 'off' is remote. I definately would leave water in the water pumps. If you do drain the tanks refit the pipes/hoses as soon as they have drained so no wasps or spiders decide to call the tank home. If you are worried about water quality you can buy water purifying tablets from BCF or similar prior to using our van next time. I would not drain my hot water tank.... Would be to worried about corrosion..... Empty tank full of air ...... Invitation for corrosion.....when did you replace your anode last??
  5. Steve & Kez, Wendy & I would like to wish you both all the best for your adventure, should you any dramas may they be small ones! Best wishes also for the upcoming holiday season..... hoping to see you down the road one day.... when will you be in Tassie? WWe get the ferry on the 30th of this month, staying about 3 weeks then flying home for a few weeks then returning mid Feb for a few more weeks.
  6. G'Day Richard, I've used the Diggers product, see earlier post in this topic, VERY happy with the results... not aware of any dulling in the chequerplate. I didnt use it on the colourbond cladding though, as I was worried about a possible residue staying in the 'overlaps' where the sheets join together. I used a weak solution with a scubbing brush to clean the plastic external fridge, washing machine & microwave vents almost look new now! You will be amazed at the results if you use it on your chassis... I mixed up a stronger solution for this worked sooooooooo well. I must also add I have a gerni so that will add to the finished job.
  7. PLEASE Alan dont vent your refrigerant to the atmosphere.....I'm NO raving greenie but I have had 30 years in the A/C & refrigeration industry we must respect our environment & not let refrigerants into the atmosphere. Depress the schrader valve & count to 10.....you got to be kidding .... slowly or quickly do you count? Next thing the fridge WONT be cycling & not getting cold because there isnt sufficent gas/refrigerant. PLEASE for the environment & YOUR fridges sake find a decent fridgey!!!!!!!!!!! Im getting off my soap box now.... no further input
  8. Not a problem Russ you are respectively entitled to your opinion.....there is a fornominame called an Eddy (air) current ed·dy (d) n. pl. ed·dies 1. A current, as of water or air, moving contrary to the direction of the main current, especially in a circular motion. 2. A drift or tendency that is counter to or separate from a main current, as of opinion, tradition, or history. v. ed·died, ed·dy·ing, ed·dies v.intr. To move in or as if in an eddy. See Synonyms at turn. v.tr. To cause to move in or as if in an eddy. But I know who's beer will be colder!
  9. Hi Geoff, That little radiator gizzmo is the condenser, good work by the sparky diagnosing the the problem, the refrigeration system would have been building up high pressure from no air flow over the condenser & tripping out on a thermal or pressure switch. Fitting another fan rectifies your problem..... all good. Can I suggest that you remove or get the sparky to remove the 'old' fan assembly as it will be impeding air flow over the condenser. And I would refrain from fitting another fan to replace the in-op one now as having one fan either side of the condenser ....one sucking & one blowing will NOT improve performance of the condenser or refrigerator performance. Good thing you can keep the beer cold now When parked up & especially in warmer climates I always open the outside access door/flap to the fridge motor to allow better airflow to the condenser, I find this really does improve the general operation of the fridge. Once a year get a compressed air nozzle & blow any 'crap' off the condenser coil & straighten any deformed/bent fins on the condenser with a small flat blade screwdriver.
  10. Hi Sue, The F165 you mentioned is that a ZTE brand (Chinese) with a patch lead & external antenna? I have one of these & I'm very happy with it. Works very well for me Our son Ben has been working up in the Kimberley for just on two years now & has had an iPhone4 since they were released, I scoffed at him when he purchased it but it has worked VERY well in fairly remote ares without any external antenna..... very surprising, BUT at the same time very pleasing (his workmates had similar phones & they worked just as well) Needless to say they are all using Telstra.....DONT even consider using any other carrier in the bush!
  11. Hi Sue & Ann Heres a good place to start http://www.bestoffroad.net.au/tradies_&_custom.html I assume that you are thinking of a Yamaha genset for your new van? This slide setup shouldnt be to difficult to sort out. I would think that the site above would set you on your way with locating or suggesting suitable slides & getting a tray to attach possibly a sheet metal worker? Can I suggest you send them a copy of the photos & a request for assistance/advice? (let them know the weight of the genset.... also don't know if you are aware that if you have an item (Yamaha 2.4kVA Silent Generator) weighing say 32kg's it exerts approx 3 times 96kg's its static weight when bouncing around so you will need slides & mounts to handle this weight) Also in passing....not having seen your floor plan & not knowing your layout I can only say the positioning of the genny box at the rear of the van makes good sense, reducing the weight on the drawbar! Hoping this is of assistance.
  12. Thanks for the info Sue & Kakadu... all booked. Kakadu....lady at park said it was a 30 minute drive to the ferry terminal is this correct? Catching day ferry 30th Dec.... not expecting traffic to be too heavy????
  13. Hi all, Suggestions please for a pet friendly park close to Spirit of Tasmania terminal arriving Melb on Hume Hwy. Thanks in anticipation
  14. Prototype Kedron??? http://www.springwise.com/tourism_travel/in-germany-caravan-land-water/
  15. Kakadu, Thanks for the intesting read, glad you are having a great time in your new van.... can I suggest you contact the administrator & have your ownership status changed. CU down the road one day!
  16. Hi Col, THANK YOU so much for the tip on oxalic acid. I can truthfully say I have never used a cleaning product that worked SO well. I have been putting off what I considered was going to be a bitch of a job for some time now....anyway today I bite the bullet. Mixed up solution as per your directions applied with a 6 litre pump spray pack (garden sprayer). I did the checker plate first about a sqm at a time, spray on, scrub with a course scrubbing brush so you dont cut your fingers on the sharp edges then rub over with a rag soaked in the mixture, left it on for NO more than 5 minutes & then hit it with a Gerni. Amazing results!!! I mixed up a slightly stronger brew for the chassis & all those ingrained red dirt stains just disappeared brought the chassis back to 'new'. Would advise the use of rubber gloves & eye protection. Thanks again Edit 6/11 The polish may be the 'bees kness' in keeping the shine up on the chequerplate but when you get what I will call 'acne damage' from flying stones on the chequerplate the only thing I think you will find that will get rid of the ingrained dirt is the oxalic acid. I recently had to have both sides of the van reclad at the factory to recify damage caused by erant trees on our last trip round Oz. The original locker doors were refitted. Picking the van up at Brendale the difference between the new & the old chequerplate was VERY obvious. With the acid mix the rear/back panel & locker doors came back to what I consider a very good finish considering the age & distance it has travelled & I expect once the new chequerplate weathers a little you wont be able to tell the difference. The front panel that suffered 'acne damage' well thats another story, thats beautifully clean now,(& NO amount of polishing would return it to its former state) but has permanent damage due to flying stones not stopped by the stone screen. The undamaged parts of the front panel after washing with the acid mix have the same finish as the locker doors & the rear panel. Each time I walk past the van & look at the chassis I'm amazed at how clean it is!
  17. Interesting link here http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=1 with further links towards the bottom of the page. For what its worth heres what pressures I use & I have even tyre wear, touch wood I have only lost one tyre & that was a stake in the side wall (very unlucky). Black top towing (highway) & dirt .... tug 40 psi (F) 46 psi ® van 40 psi Off road .... Depends on conditions & speed but as a rule will drop 4/6 psi on each axle. Extreme & sand.... down to as low as 18 on the tug & van. I have my own better quality tyre pressure guage for checking pressures dont rely on service station guages. Always pump up air bags to max 30 psi BEFORE putting van on & when van is on drop pressure slowly until until tug JUST starts to drop 'in the back'. Always try & keep the van/draw bar level when towing. Chain brackets & tow ball (tension) I check once a week more often if doing 'it tough'. Todays trivia 1 psi =7 kpa (30 psi = 210 kpa) A great bit of gear for deflating tyre pressures is the ARB E-Z deflating kit http://www.arb.com.au/products/general-accessories/tyre-accessories/
  18. Click on the link... />http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QBv2CFTSWU
  19. Hi Red Rubi, Can I suggest you speak to Jan McNeill at the sales yard 07 33503333 or 0403774418. Jan would be the one to speak to as the van you are looking at is about 6 years old she would be able to tell you/recall the differences in the ATV v's XC ranges.... she is a character & will steer you in the right direction. If you know the chassis number of this van (on the draw bar) let her know & she probably will be able to 'pull up' the floor plan & discuss the pros & cons. Tell her you have made an enquiry on this site & that you have been directed to her. Looking forward to seeing you...... down the road one day
  20. Trying to visulise.... what about a different goose neck......one with a slightly 'lower drop' or a goose neck that is longer & extends further to the rear of the vehicle or maybe 'turning' the goose neck over 180 degrees & refitting the towball of course. From what I'm thinking your possibily going to have to change the goose neck... your lucky that you have a Hayman Reese set up & that there are many different goose necks available..... check in the yellow pages or google for tow bar suppliers/fitters in your area. Have a look at this http://www.haymanreese.com.au/products/accessories.htm Hope this helps
  21. TonyH

    Head units

    Hi all, Currently fitting out the new tug a VX 200 series TTD (nicest vehicle I have ever owned) On my last 200 I had an Eclipse AVN726EA this was a good unit that did pretty well everything I wanted it to do except it didnt have Hema mapping. There is a new verion of the AVN out now the AVN827GA just got home from looking at it at the radio shop very fancy nearly need a degree in electronics to operate it still doesnt have Hema mapping but it does have selected offroad tracks installed on it (bet the track you need isnt on it). The only head unit that I'm aware of that has Hema mapping is the VMS unit (correct me if I'm wrong) but I fell this unit is over priced & not user friendly (feedback please from those who have one). I also looked at a Pioneer 930BT head unit it has no off road mapping but appears to be fairly easy to navigate in operation & should be about $500 cheaper than the AVN827GA. I look forward to input from those who have upgraded their headunits & would appreciate hearing about your selection & why. If you were to go out & purchase another unit tomorrow would you buy the same again or would you buy xyz with these missing features??? The Hema mapping feature would be nice ....but then we can always use the Hema maps in the "Camps" book!! Of course I need a unit that can handle two cameras & be able to have the caravan camera on while towing & still be able to use the audio.
  22. Previously in this topic (28th June) I suggested the idea of a 'New Products' section for this site.. it was said that discussion would be had to this idea....any discussion or has the idea been knocked on the head?
  23. I always leave mine on 12v regardless.... if I'm on 240v or not... a certain person at the factory told me to do this
  24. G'Day Pete, Firstly if you are going to do the big lap....good on you, we only got back from doing the same thing 8 months ago & I'm ready to go again. You must be with Telstra when you are travelling.... that is if you want any coverage outside the big metero areas. As far as your phone goes.... the latest style smartphones (iphone etc) will not accept an external aerial....dont know what sort of phone you have. I have one of the 'older' style ZTE phones looks like it came of the ark but it readially accepts the 'patch lead' which is connected to the external aerial on the Toyota & also the aerial we have mounted on the side of the van. I will have several more 'reception bars' than Wendys iphone that isnt connected to an external areial. I can also use the same aerial for the modem on the computer either in the car or van. When it comes to computer modems you will have to have one that accepts an external aerial, my new Telstra express modem wont accept a patch lead yet my recently updated one would. You certainly wouldnt need two aerials, I'm sure you could buy a splitter & connect two patch leads to one aerial. Do a bit of searching on the net also visit & talk to several phone shops ....get throughly confused & also hopefully you will get other good feedback from this post. Have a great trip!!!!
  25. Hi Chris, Enjoyed reading your report.... brought back many happy memories. I see they still havent done anything yet at Roper bar, re getting better access to the fuel bowsers. I had to fill our rig the same way (jerry cans).
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