TonyH

Hi Chris, Not a problem at all...... O/S/R is off side rear.... drivers side rear. O/S/F " " " front..... " " front N/S/R is near side rear....passengers side rear. N/S/F " " " front.... " " front The rear wheel speed sensors are on the extreme outer front/leading 'face or edge' of the axle tube. The sensor is secured to the axle tube by a 6mm nut & it is easily located. Lay down in front of rear wheel stick your head in under vehicle & you will see it. There is a wiring harness going to it with a female plug on it. The front wheel speed sensors are located just in front of the the outer Constant Velocity Joints on each side again they have a harness going to them also with a female plug. The function of a sensor is to let the ECU (Electronic OR Engine Control Unit depending weather it is a engine, driveline or accessory what is happening at any given moment in regards to speed, temperature or pressure. ('Modern' vehicles also have BCM's (Body Control Module) these control the operation of safety equipment (seat belts, airbags), ventilation, stereo & communication devices. I will stand corrected but the current Commodore has a total of eight (8) ECM's ECU's & BCM's not sure how many the 200 series has....would be a similar number) The wheel speed sensor monitors each road wheels speed, which is critical in the overall operation of the ABS, traction control, downhill assist (petrol models). So when I 'knocked out' one of my sensors.... that particular sensor ceased working the ECU recognised this & the warning lights came on. With those warning lights on it lets the driver know there is a problem....although I could continue driving... the operation of the ABS & traction control would have been affected. If you have a problem with say the engine or transmission the relative sensor that monitors that function will put the relevent warning light on, or the vehicle into limp home mode (greatly reduced power & transmission function) or just cut the engine out. Contary to a lot of hype going round....modern Japanese electronics are very reliable & rarely give trouble. Nippon Denso is an off shoot of Toyota, they design & manufacture all the electonics, electrics, A/Cond, ventilation & radiator products for Toyota....top quality stuff!. So if a warning light comes on CHECK it out, or have it checked as soon as possible. Something I used to say to my customers was.... "a little CHECK now is better that a big CHEQUE later". Hope this helps you..... :thumbsup:

G'Day Chris, Just got your message, can I reply to you early next week (Tuesday), as we are about to leave to go to Sydney for our nephews wedding. :biggrin: Regards

High all, Just thought I would pass this on..... for 200 series owners Went for a drive through the Jillaby State Forest (Wyong area) the other day, all good no dramas, a few potholes & a little bit of tree debris in places, no real challange. Halfway along the road I noticed the dash warning lights had illuminated (low 4wd & VSC flashing, ABS, traction control & h/brake lights were on). I hit the button on my Scan Guage 11 to check for fault codes it didnt show any codes. All vehicle controls & functions appeared to be operating OK, as it was rather wet outside I ventured on & arrived home with no dramas. Next day had a check of the vehicle...still no fault codes, disconnected the battery for half a hour, reconnected, still had lights on dash. Got under the truck & found that the wiring harness to the O/S/R road wheel sensor had been broken off (probably tree branch). I was able to temporarily able to reconnect the harness, checked the lights now all 'out' & the way it should be. I was able to remove the sensor from the axle tube & the broken male plug from the female plug on the harness without damage. Went to local dealer to price new sensor $255.85..... after I got off the floor I thought I will have a go a repairing this my self. I purchased a tube of Selleys 'Plastics Glue' this product comes with a tube of glue & a primeing 'pen' similar to a Texta pen. I 'repaired/glued' the broken parts & put a smear of silcon around the join. Refitted the sensor & all is good. :thumbsup: I have NO association with Selleys & my only intention is to share this experiance & possibly help someone else down the track

Hi, Do you know you can order direct from the Clearview website, www.clearviewmirrors.com.au compare the pricing. I dont know what you have been quoted from TJM .....but you may save a dollar or two :thumbsup:

Hi Sue, When you have them extended (out) do thet 'fold or blow' back onto the drivers window when you pass a semi at speed? Best wishes

Hi Pete, Sorry to hear of your dilema, will be interested to find out what went wrong?

Hi, Cant help you with the TV problem. But make sure you do the tree top walk & how far up the Gloucester Tree did you get? I really enjoyed the short time we had in the south west only wish it could have been longer. RU heading east or west from Walpole? Regards & CU down the road Tony H

Hi everyone, Greetings & best wishes, may all have a safe & happy holiday season. Garry & Kay....havent you heard of Christmas in July? :laugh:

Hi Pete, If the tank is just chaffed & a hole has been worn through by a rivit or similar you will be able to patch the tank by just using an electric soldering iron (with a 8/10mm tip). Clean the area to be repaired as well you can to remove all traces of greasy fuel. Heat plastic material around hole with soldering iron & work molten plastic towards the 'hole' & plug up hole. Depending on the size of the repair & the quality of the repair ....this could be considered a permanent repair. You could see if you can find an old plastic jerry can or 20 litre plastic container practice on this first if you wish. If it was the same type of plastic as the diesel tank you could cut a piece of the old jerry can or plastic contianer & use it as a 'filler rod' for your repair' You will have NO worries using the soldering iron around the diesel tank doing the repair it will be quiet safe.... may be a few fumes but all will be OK. :thumbsup: Good luck

Hi Bryan, Try a plumbing supply or an outlet that sells gas heaters (BBQ's Galore or similar) :thumbsup:

Hi Laurie & Helen "You can't please everybody and I bet most people who are whinging would have something negative to say about anything if they were given the chance". Picture this.....you have been towing the van off road, you stop for smoko, lunch or just the end of the day, open the door & then your heart falls from your chest is caught bouncing in your underpants when all you can see through the inside of your van is dust & I'm not talking about a weeks worth of dust on the sideboard at home. It sort of take the gloss of things when the first you have to do clean the inside of the van, all over the bedding, lounge, tables, benches & stove top. So much dust you can 'write' in it on the stove top....so much that when you run you finger through it leaves miniture 'dunes' if you know what I mean. If I'm a whinger then so be it. I thought the purpose of this thread was for feedback to propective new owners. Am I a disatified owner/whinger.... NO WAY... I love the product the van that is & all that goes with it....well most things anyway. For what its worth my original tow vehicle was 100 series I now have a 200 series Toyota. The dust ingress has become worse towing with the 200 series..... the only thing I can put it down to is the air flow off the tow vehicle creating extra? air flow or directing dusty air up towards the 4 seasons hatch.....so with the repositoning of the hatch (to the rear of the A/C unit) it is very possible that the dust ingress will be dramacticaly reduced. I now carry a foam insert that I put in the recess of the hatch & I accept that this is a problem due to the design, positioning & gas regulations.....but hey I can live with that, because I'm out & about enjoying my Kedron & the great outdoors. Life is great....enjoy it No offence taken but dont put a knife in my hand & turn your back when we fianally meet. :laugh: CU down the road

Hi Mark & Simone, Go to & click membership tab top of this page, download membership form & post off....too easy :thumbsup:

Hi, As we are aware, the 4 seasons hatch does leak & let in more than its fair share of dust. Despite this annoying short coming they are important in the overall ventilation & letting light into the van. The 'fix' Kedron have done mounting the hatch behind the A/C unit is probably going to be as good as it gets until something better comes along. Due to gas regulations the so I'm told the flaps of the hatch have to remain partly 'open' even when fully 'closed' (Irish I know) to let air flow through so as to disperse any LPG should it leak from the stove even though it is recommended to turn gas off at bottle when travelling. (The guys at Brendale will not modify or alter the operation of the flaps, but when I get the van back I will be investigating further to see what can be done to 'rework' the operation of the flaps') Travelling on black top is not going to pose any problems, but if you were going off road....how hard would it be to carry a pre cut sheet of foam to insert into the recess around the hatch, then remove carefully on arrival at your destination take outside give it a shake & store away till required next time. Webby/Sue H has some photos here on this site showing how she has installed towel rails into the recess for the purpose of hang clothes to air/dry these rails could also be useful in supporting the foam insert but may restrict or inhibit the removal of a 'dusty' insert. The fantastic hatches are amazing in the amount of air that they move. I feel that having two would be an overkill (appreciate feedback from other readers). The fantastic hatch can only be partly left open in a light shower otherwise the rain will 'splash in'. I have not been aware of any dust/water ingress whilst travelling from the fantastic hatch. The only negative with the hatch is the difficulty you have cleaning the inside of the hatch cover. Life is too hectic at the moment to have the B&B up & running again. We are having to go to Sydney a couple of times a week for Wendy to have chemo & transfusions....but it will all turn out OK I'm sure! Will be having 29 here for Christmas lunch then most sleeping over :helpsmilie:

Hi Gary & Kaye, Trust you are both well. Can I suggest you have a yarn to either Dave or Ashley at the factory re the Heike Hatches, apparently they have there own problems as well, after leaving my van at Brendale recently Ashley has talked me out of having a Heike fitted. Remember though our 4 seasons is fitted at the front of the van, current new placement is now behind the A/C unit which I have heard is working a lot better. Cheers & beers

Hi Sue, If you dont get any dust through you 4 seasons hatch why do you have that sponge insert fitted into the recess of yours? :confused1: Where are you guys at the moment?

Hi Richard, This is a definate NO NO..... refer to LCOOL.org (200 series section) lots of info there, also info on how to reset fuel/water warning light when it goes off. :thumbsup: CU down the road

Where all far to polite to mention your driving style...... look out here he comes again :laugh:

Hi Gary, Did you get the PM I sent you the other day? I have just come home after an 18 month trip round Oz, my 200 performed without a fault. I did just on 50k k's during the trip, between servicing I only put in just over two liters of oil for the whole trip. Can't complain about that. Fuel consumption different story, wish I could say I only used 2 liters of fuel for the whole trip, towing our van I averaged 19L per 100k's which I dont think is over the top.

Hi Bryan I did try '16' but that was about 41 years ago.....currently trying version 57 seems to be ok but just a little bit slower than the 16 Sorry cant help you

Major problem with ethanol is it attracts water/moisture which of course a problem with any fuel.....bio fuels a definate NO NO with aviation as the moisture can freeze (at altitude) causing somewhat of a blockage....oh no....its OK we have the 'air' brakes dont we?* * * * * 'splat' :sad:

Hi Glen, DC to DC???? I have & know of AC to DC chargers. When travelling I believe that the tow vehicle will be charging the (van) batteries via the anderson plug, also if there is sufficent sun you should be getting charge through the solar panels. One of the first things I do when setting up for the night when getting in the van is to check the battery voltage, usually showing 13.5 to 13.8v which I consider to be pretty well spot on. You dont mention what your reading is. I would consider putting a multi meter across your car battery & checking your alternator output & seeing if it is up to scratch. I hope you get to the 'bottom' of this as you must have the fridge working to keep the beer cold! :laugh: CU down the road

Hi Alan, To get that price did you receive a multi policy discount? Regards

Hi all, We have had success using a 'pump pack' with warm water & bleach/detergent mix, spray on leave a few minutes then wash off with warm water in another 'pump pack'. Hope this helps CU down the road

I had to replace my breakaway battery when we were in Darwin, battery flat & as dead as a dodo. Whilst fitting new battery refered to owners manual, I believe that my unit has possibly been incorrectly wired at the factory. I have made up a short fused jumper lead to go from the breakaway control unit 'charging point' to the nearest AGM battery....all good now....will have wiring checked when next at Brendale. Hope this helps CU down the road

Hi Phil, Check owners manual that came with van, the battery should be replaced every two years. Easy to replace & available from Dick Smith's or Tandy for about $50 CU down the road