John and Ann
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Posts posted by John and Ann
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Hi Brian,
I agree with Russ. Ours is turned off and has "never" been on since leaving the factory, I asked asked for it not to be installed, but, it was anyway citing the redundancy it provided as the reasoning, our inverter/charger has an 80A charge capacity so have plenty of headroom.
John
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Your most welcome Alan,
We will be following you shortly, well end of May heading off to Darwin and back to the Kimberley to get away from the cold, we might bump into you on our travels.
John
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Hi All,
There has previously been discussion about what in car navigation units are best used when travelling this wide land. The options are many and varied, but, if you are a little handy with some technology there are a number of smaller 7" Android OS tablets on the market which offer considerable advantages over the conventional bundled navigation units.
I recently purchased a Samsung Galaxy 7.7 tablet, I have the WiFi version but there is a 3G version also. These devices, dare I say it, are similar to an iPad. I am an iPad devotee but to use a 10" touchscreen unit for navigation was for me at least, not an option, just too big, besides it had to have Android as the OS as OziEplorer has an Android version in Beta development, but nothing for Apple IOS....... yet, it's planned.
After installing the Beta version of OziExplorer, purchased for a very, very reasonable fee, I loaded all my NatMap files, Hema maps and Camps waypoints, too easy. There's a program available from OziExplorer which allows you to do your own screen layouts. The end result was a very easy to use 7" touchscreen navigation on a RAM mount by my right hand when driving that I can read my emails on, browse the internet, (not when driving!) etc, etc, there's heaps of apps available.
I don't need turn by turn navigation as it is already fitted to the Landcruiser, what I did need is a better option than my PC to use my off-road, topo and marine maps, If I wanted turn by turn as well there are apps for that as well.
Below is a screen shot, which by chance is close to actual size (I've covered over the Lat/Long normally shown top right). I'm not suggesting any particular brand of device, you just need to be sure that it has a built in GPS, some of the really cheap ones available on the internet don't, you need to ask,but, be warned you still might not get the right answer. The sales staff I spoke to were not very clued in on the technical nitty gritty of their array of offerings.
Ask away if you have a question either within the thread or PM me. Might not suit everyone, just putting it out there as something really worth considering if you are in the market or looking for a upgrade.
Happy travels
John
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Hi Alan,
I'd stay with the DCDC option as the only logical place for a big inverter would be in your van as that's where you may, "almost", have the battery capacity to run that size unit for short jobs. That size unit needs 4x120AH batteries.
I have a 2000VA, 1.45kw inverter/charger combo that feeds all the power points, this switches itself to mains or generator if available, it comes in handy for the toaster, kettle and of course the "hair dryer", but, in reality It is only ever used for the hair dryer when we are on the road between major stops, the battery draw is massive, so not suited for use in a generator free environment.
Haven't tried our coffee machine on it yet, maybe I'll give it a go when we head off at the end of May
Good luck.JG
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You can get the white fiberglass screen by the metre out of the UK.
John
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Thanks Alan,
Glad to help.
My caravan charger is mounted in the van front hatch adjacent to the batteries, above the solar regulator and 240/12v power supply. Rather than using fuses as shown on the installation diagram I've used circuit breakers. This came about after bad experiences with melting fuses for the unit in the cruiser and discussion with a Redarc rep at one of the local shows. If you use fuses you really need to use the bigger version of the blade fuses.
I see no real reason you could not make up an interim kit to achieve what you want, certainly the Redarc unit will charge full current at engine idle. One thing you might be able to do is install Anderson plugs on the input and output of the DCDC charger and simply connect it between the vehicle and the van, just be sure to never mix up the input and output, paint the plugs perhaps, reversing won't damage the charger just won't charge the batteries.
I bought my chargers on eBay the prices were far cheaper, but, if your AE is a good mate he might do a better price, fit some Anderson plugs and post it off to you.
Things to look out for are:1. Is the wiring in your current Anderson circuit capable of carrying 50 amps, car and van?2. Is the fuse in the Anderson circuit of your car rated at 50 amps if not can it be upgraded easily?3. Is the fuse in the Anderson circuit of your van rated at 50 amps (probably not, mine was 30A, it's under the lid of the left most battery)?
You could alternatively make up a kit with some clips to connect to the vehicle, fuses on input and output and Anderson plug for van input, you'll still need to investigate the fuse size in the van and be sure to use adequate size cable and clips..
Either way, unless you're quite handy and close to the needed bits might be a challenge to make up this kit on the road. If you're AE can send it to you that would be the simple solution, unless you're in Perth in which case come round with a few beers and a charger and we can get it done in a few hours
Good luck, let me know how you go.....
John
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Hi Alan,
I have installed a Rederac BCDC1220 in my car to charge the dual 100ah AGM batteries in the rear and a BCDC1240 in our van to charge the three 120ah batteries there. They work a treat and have distinct advantages over simply parralelling up you car and van via the Anderson without any other intervening devices.
For a start the AGM's in your van have a different optimal charge voltage which can only be achieved using a DCDC charger. The Redarc units switch on automatically they sense the car alternator is online. If there is volt drop due to wiring lengths the DCDC charger maintains optimal charges voltage regardless but within reason.
It is not necessary to install 25mn2 cable, although I have in my car at least because I have multiple systems and a 90ltr fridge hanging off it via a number of circuit breakers in the rear of the car. I would suggest a min of 10mm2 cable to the Anderson plug of your car.
Simple parralelling is I believe a hangover from the days when your car batteries were of the same chemistry as you would have in your van, that is no longer the case. So my belief is the optimal solution for best long term benefit is DCDC charging.
Remember that if you do opt to just go with upgrading wiring to minimize volt drop and don't install any intervening devices then you have the potential to drag your vehicles batteries down with those in your van should you leave the Anderson charge plug connected.
That's my view anyway, it's cheaper and a simple DIY job.
Ask away if you have any other questions.
John
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Hi all,
A foot note to The post from Rod.
It's no longer legal to import 40 channel UHF CB's into Austrlia.
You may continue to use your 40 Channel UHF for a limited time, I seem to recal it is something like 5 years, so you will need to upgrade at some point, even the little hand helds you have. I'm sure plenty won't espicuallly those hand helds we all carry for hiking and other jobs like reversing.
Another channel that is worth knowing about is 30 . This is used for broadcast by UHFCB in conjunction with EWN to broadcast emergency information in the event of storms, floods, fires and such like.
Cheers, John
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Hi Alan,
Have not done this and can't see any good reason why anyone might want to. What are you trying to do?
John
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You're welcome Chris,
Enjoy the your new fresh air when you get the job done. BTW one thing I did was to put some stainless steel washers over the pins before fitting the retaining clips, you'll see what I mean when you get your kit, seemed to me that they might be a better option than without.
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1333333966' post='7716']
Hi Pete and Tracey,
We have the same setup as Jaygee. Had the ARB OME setup first, but needed to have the Lovell's GVM upgrade to be legal. My advice, go straight to the Lovell's and save $2500 by not wasting time with OME upgrade. We had ours done by Northside 4x4 at North Lakes Brisbane.
regards
Chris
Peter,
Those of us that have fitted Lovells kits are probably a bit one eyed, but, I believe it is with good cause. The extra gain in GVM and the improvement in ride quality make it an only option in my humble opinion.
You should make every effort to have the suspension upgraded before the vehicle is first licensed if you can as you then get a national compliance plate rather than a state one from which ever state you have the upgrade done in. My understanding was that a state compliance means that if the vehicle is to be reregistered in another state then there is the potential you will be required to redo the engineering and complaince.
My vehicle was done after a few years after first registration by WA Suspension in Osborne Park, they were very good.
Yell out if need something here in Perth, we might catch you up sometime when we head off up your way in June if you're still there.
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Hi Chris,
I've been on the roof many times. It is quite safe provided you place your feet near items such as hatches, vents, solar panels, and the like as there is generally additional frame work around these to support and tie them in to the rest of the roof framework.
Test your footing and if in doubt place a piece of ply or similar down to distribute the load, I've not had to do this, but then I have a lot happening on my roof, 4 solar panels, A/C, 5 various hatches and vents, TV antenna and a blockout to instal a sat dish if I feel inclined at some point.
Cheers and good luck, it's such an easy job.
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Hi All,
I recently purchased covers to install on two of my three Fantasic Vents. When I set out on this task I was unable to find a local supplier so I ended up buying them from the US, $256 AUD for three, the postage which is included in that price took just under two weeks, not bad considering the size of the box.
The installation could not have been easier, just followed the included instructions (unusual), time taken was about 1/2 hour per vent. Now we have hatches that we can open in all but the absolute worst weather (cyclone) and leave open without having to worry about the possibility of rain.
I've attached some pics for those interested in the product. My next job is to try to fit some filter medium so I can use one vent to pressurise the van on those really dusty parts of our travels.
I fitted some aquarium filter pad, similar to what is used in domestic airconditioner return air grilles to the van door grille and the lower external vent hatch of the fridge, simple jobs hopefully it helps with the dust on the Gibb River Road later this year
This is the cover prior to installation:
This is the cover as fitted:
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Hi Peter and Tracy,
We had a suspension upgrade using the kit by Lovells. This upgraded the GVM to 3800kg. Does your plan address GVM or has the problem been solved by Toyota? There are times we are pretty much loaded to capacity, van and vehicle so our upgrade was not so much a luxury as a necessity.
We fitted Polyair bags at the same time which was before we got our van, so I can't say what it would be like without them. We run a similar pressure to Donmar, but, we do use a WDH as without it and although the vehicle sits quite level the front end tends to be a bit light, tending to a little torque steer if you take off in a hurry.
Cheers
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Hi Pete and Tracy,
We met you in Mt Isa last year, I have a National Luna 90 litre twin, its a big fridge freezer, I have stayed with the standard BW fridge slide. I did look at the Drop Slide but for me it took up too much space and as you said would still be there if you removed the fridge.
The fridge top which is hinged on the long side does foul the opened upper rear door and getting bulky things in or out is not as easy as it would be if I could fully open the lid, but, for the most part I have come to accept this small inconvenience and don't really find it too much of a problem.
If you opt to go for a DS then don't get the BW slide as the DS, the 60 at least is wider that the BW slide, not sure about the 40, that's probably OK if you want options.
Cheers, enjoy the new truck.
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Hi David,
Am thinking of that tow vehicle myself because of the weight issues. Did you consider downgrading the Silverado slightly to allow you to drive it on C Class license?
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Hi Gary & Kaye,
I used a cover for a short time which was not a particularly cheap one and like everyone else it got holes in it very quickly, there are just so many sharp edges and to try to reinforce the cover at those points seemed to me an impossible task as the cover moved around a bit despite being quite well tied down. Whilst this is bad enough, by far my biggest concern was the temperature rise in the van because of the cover. On some days the temperature in the van reached 70oc plus which is not good for just about anything and everything inside the van.
John
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Hi Sue,
Mine is a diesel with chip, exhaust upgrade, heaps of other upgrades and accessories.
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Nev,
Our ATV (2010) has drain plugs at one end of the tank, used them to lighten the load but as a general rule as Tony suggested I leave them full.
Our LC does from 9.5 to 12.5 usual weight of around 3t highway to city driving not towing. With van in tow and fully loaded to 7.3t we do 18.5 to 26, average is more like 25 but have done some killer days at 40+. All numbers are ltrs/100km.
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Hi Pete,
I have a different setup to most everyone. Rather than a modem tied to my Laptop I have an Ericsson W35 NextG modem/access point which runs on 12v and is connected to my external NextG antenna, the sim card in the modem is a Telstra mobile cap with an attached data plan. The advantages I have are: All my devices, laptops, iPhones and iPads have WiFi internet access all round our van through the W35; I have a standard cordless phone connected to the W35 for phone calls in or out; I can connect a fax machine if I want.
Generally I leave the access point turned on as it uses very little power, signal strength is always higher than our iPhones, works a treat for us.
Good luck with it all.
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Just realised today that the new site has a corresponding site interface for mobile devices, very, very user friendly on my iPhone, brilliant, big thanks and thumbs up.
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John,
I'l send you my details, if your ever in Perth give me a call, we have room if you want a stopover.
You have me curious now as to what exactly it is that you have. Any part numbers? Perhaps a couple of photo's?
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Hi John,
Making an Assumption here in that you are talking about WDH bars rather than Sway Bars, my apologies in advance if you really meant Sway Bars.
Sounds to me like your WDH needs to be angled back a little further, this is a real simple job that I have done recently to give me a little capacity to tension the bars. How many chain links are there between the bar and the snap up hook? I suspect that you have too few, this creates two problems, first bars could rub on chassis rail when turning, second there is insufficient slack when tensioned to allow for cornering and thus the tensioning hook will slide back and forth on the A frame. I used 5 links (min recommended by Reece) as the target between tension bar and snap up hook, but am currently at 7 I think, this means the bars hang a little low but for the most part this will be OK for me.
Before you start anything load up the rear of your car with everything you would normally carry when traveling including fuel and measure from the ground to the wheel arch at the centre of each rear wheel, make a note of the measurement.
To adjust the angle undo the top bolt (28mm sockets/spanners needed), once loose move the sawtooth washer one set of teeth so that the hitch tilts back a little, re-tighten and test by hooking up your van, remember though to jack up your van little while hooked onto your car (lift the vehicle rear and the van front) before tensioning your bars, use the link that is closest to the hook with the yoke of the snap up hook parallel to the ground.
Now release the jack and remeasure at the rear wheels of your vehicle, if the sag is close to 15mm or so, then you are pretty well done, if not, you need to angle the hitch back a little more or if you have more than 5 links between the bar and the snap up bracket go one link more and re-measure (you might need to jack the car and van a little higher to go another link).
It is important to remember, NEVER, try to tension or release the tension bars unless you have taken up the tension by jacking up the van while hooked up to the car.
Good luck, hope this helps. I have attached what Hayman Reece sent me when I asked for setup information, it provides more detail but is essentially along the same lines as I have posted here. 1000lb WDH.pdf, thanks to Hayman Reece for supplying me with this document and although you might not have a 1000lb WDH John, I believe the principals for setup will still apply.
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Hi Rick,
Sorry, was Phil and I having laugh about how the new van came about, we both left off the WD from hitch comment, we were both refering to a 1000lb WDH
Battery and charging Q's
in Public Forum
Posted
Hi Brian,
I think Russ has it mostly covered. My two cents worth would be that if you have to use the 240v to 12v power supply to ensure you have enough current to run a good boost stage then you have a poorly chosen charger which you should probably address.
From a practical point of view and in the event you really do need to run a generator to boost your batteries it would be better to have a larger charger than a small one, your generator won't care either way unless it is tiny, but, your neighbours might, as with a higher boost current the time your generator needs to run will be shorter. You should also endeavour to allow the charger to get to float stage before killing off the generator as the absorbtion stage is as important as the boost stage for the long term benefit of your batteries.
Cheers
John