Hi Bruce Tom & I went to the tip in winter 2006. We travelled in company with a couple of Bushtrackers and a camper trailer. We stayed on the development road, as I wasn't game to try the telegraph track due to my inexperience in off-road towing. The worst part of the road on our trip was from Lakeland to Laura. It had fairly rough corrigations and then good sections which lull you into a false sense of security and higher speed... and then you come crashing down into a large bull dust pot-hole you can't stop in time for. Enjoy all the dips! Every trip will be different depending on when the road was last graded and the weather. Things we enjoyed were: * Mt Carbine Caravan Park is a great inexpensive place to stay for a few days on the way up and/or back. They do a free guided evening walk which is very interesting. Takes about an hour. (Also, they will store vans for free if you have stayed there and don't have an off-road van.) You can also trap big red-claw in the area. * Palmer River gold fields area - enjoyed driving a few of the bush tracks but unsuitable to take the van. * Cooktown is also not to be missed. * the Quinkin art just south of Laura. * The Bends (overnight stop free camping beside a creek just north of Coen) * Hamburgers at Archer River roadhouse are a great take-away food fix. * Fruitbat Falls (wish we'd gone on to Eliot Twin Falls but we were on a tight timeline to get back to Cairns.) You can stay at Eliot Falls but not a Fruitbat Falls. * Punsand Bay Camping Ground at the Tip. * Lots of interesting things to see at the tip (old aircraft, Pioneer and war relics etc) * we got good Internet reception from the beach at Punsand Bay. Fresh food at Bamaga is poor quality and expensive (as you would expect). If you want to free camp on the way up and back look for an old quarry or roadworks clearing. There are quite a few that give you good visual protection from the road. Best wishes for a fantastic trip. Jackie & Tom PS If anyone found a new perspex back window guard on the cape road in 2006 - it was mine! (suction caps stop working once they get dusty!!!) It cost us about $110 to get a piece of perspex cut to size in Cairns. Next trip we might use the yoga mat idea.