Jump to content


Ordinary Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Bas

  1. Hi Ben Have no experience with Waeco, but with Vitrefrigo if there is an ice build up in the freezer section, the fridge section temp suffers. However, as you pulled the fridge out to check voltage etc, it is likely you will have defrosted the freezer. Bas
  2. Received an email from RACQ a few days ago and one of the topics is "Getting the balance right" and has a video of a vehicle and caravan with and without a Hayman Reese WDH, and the difference in braking with and without the weight being distributed correctly. It is worth watching and demonstrates that air bags or stronger rear springs alone do not provide weight distribution. I tried to paste the URL without success but Googling "RACQ Getting the balance right" will find it. Cheers Barry
  3. Hi Brian We had the same issue during the time that the van was covered. We had had a cover custom-made and requested that there be clear panels fitted to correspond with the solar panels. The makers would not do this and advised it is a common problem and so also sold small portable panels to keep the batteries topped up. We had two small panels from our camping life and wired these up to run into the Andersen plug. With a bit of trouble the panels were manoeuvred onto the top of the van where they happily sat, supplying enough juice to keep the batteries topped up. Cheers, Bas
  4. I may be mistaken but a WDH works differently to airbags. Airbags assist in keeping the rear of the tow vehicle at the optimum height, but do not distribute the weight of the towed van etc across the rear and front suspensions. I have both fitted to my 100 series but run only 15lbs in the airbags and use the WDH for what is intended ie weight distribution. Cheers Bas
  5. Geoff and Joy I have decided to replace the power supply so that it runs the lights when on 240 and that is probably why the batteries were only recently replaced after almost 9 years. I have noticed since the power supply has not been functioning that the charger runs a lot of the time so the batteries must be cycling more frequently. Regards Barry
  6. Hi all It pays to shop around for filters. Our 100 series TD has had a Stanadyne pre-filter fitted for some years, and these are about $30 to replace. However, Maxiparts which stocks Donaldson filters has the same filter for about $21. Likewise, it has a "package" of air cleaner filter, oil filter and main fuel filter for the 100 series for about $78 all up. Toyota sells the oil filter alone for nearly $60. Cheers Bas
  7. Hi While on mains power I have turned the bottom switch to 240 and the top 2 switches to the on position, and while travelling the opposite positions. Monday last we were at a van park in Cessnock and there was a huge rainstorm with strong wind. While sitting it out in the van the lights in the van went out and we presumed there was a power outage in the area. However, when the storm abated, we noticed there were lights on in a nearby cabin and so called the office and a sparky came to check out the power outlets in the park. No problem with those but he found one of the circuit switches in the front boot had tripped and when it was reset, there were no lights on 240 but there were on the 12v position. Then I noticed that the Baintech 12v power supply unit was not working, and therefore no power to the 12v lights in the van. But there was 240v power to the van GPOs. So, the lights ran directly from the batteries and the charger kept the batteries topped up. Cause for the Baintech snuffing it was rain had been blown in through the vent directly above the Baintech, and water and electricity don't mix. Not a great position in reality for the Baintech. Today I rang Ashley at Kedron to enquire about a replacement Baintech and he advised that they have not fitted them for some time and run the lights etc from the batteries with the charger or solar keeping the batteries charged. Cheers Barry
  8. Hi Jeff Our 2006 ATV intermittently had some dampness on the floor just in front of the right side wheel arch and as it started with some wet weather at the time, suspected it might have come from a roof or wall leak, the outside shower, or from around the wheel arch when travelling in rain. All of the above sources were eliminated and only by coincidence did I happen to feel some dampness on top of the wheel arch one day. Then I felt around the through-the-wall fitting and it too was damp. I tightened the 4 screws that can be seen and the problem disappeared. For a while. I pulled the fitting out and some research showed it is not an uncommon problem they have and the best solution is to replace it, which I did. No more leaks for a cost of $50/60 I believe. Why the problems was intermittent I realised depended on the slope front to back of the van when parked, so if slightly down at the front the water ran forward and was noticeable, but if to the rear the water ran down between the wheel arch and the HWS and was not apparent, and the warmth from the HWS probably dried it out. A one way valve may stop the problem when on pump but not when on mains so replacing the fitting - Camec has them - will solve the problem under both circumstances. Hope this is of assistance. Regards Barry
  9. Hi Roly and all I have had a Big Red Air Compressor since 2000 and used it in the Simpson Desert, on Fraser I and for the van and the Cruiser. It is in a toolbox and came with battery clamps however, I removed them and made up two fittings which can be plugged on to the compressor lead. One has the clamps and the other a plug for connection to the auxiliary battery which lives in the back of the LC100 (no room under the bonnet on the turbo diesel). I also fitted a switch in the lead so the compressor can be turned off without unplugging. Fitting an Andersen plug for connection makes sense. The Big Red has done a lot of work and has been totally reliable. They are fitted with a thermal cut-out and it works as we found on a blisteringly hot day when reinflating after leaving the Simpson. It saves cooking the compressor. It is quite light and for space reasons could be removed from its toolbox, but that is handy for the hose, lead, tyre gauge, connections, spare valves and caps etc etc. I understand Big Red became Piranha Red, and not sure what now. Cheers, Barry
  10. Does it only back in a straight line or into difficult sites that we all regularly come across? If you can't back it you shouldn't be towing it. Bas
  11. Mike, we have a 2006 ATV with a 230 litre like yours. We arranged to call into Andrew the Fridge Whisperer on our way to Elliott Heads in December 2013 because the fridge was cooling but the fan was not running. Andrew replaced the fan (Requiring removal of the fridge, a two person job but quite easy). The fridge then, and has continued to cool/freeze very well but the fan runs continuously. We called in to see him again January this year because of the fan running, and he replaced the temperature control unit as it was very difficult to turn the knob. He thought it might have been affecting the fridge operation. During the very high temperatures at Elliott Heads in January, the fridge coped without difficulty but the fan ran continuously. I rang Andrew and he is quite puzzled as to why this should happen. I had purchased a temperature gauge at Jaycar which has an internal sender, and the display outside, to be aware of what the fridge was doing. The ice build up is par for the course with these fridges and Andrew advises to defrost regularly. This has probably not been much help other than yours is not an isolated condition. If you find a solution, I would be pleased to hear. Regards, Barry
  12. We were flooded to about 1.5m in the 2011 Brisbane flood, and stripped gyprock back to assist with drying of the wall framing. To avert the growth of mould, we used the most recommended treatment of a quarter of a teaspoon of oil of cloves in a litre of water. Mist it onto the surface and then let it dry. It smells "nice" too!! It works in killing mould. As Terry said, bleach only hides it, not kills it. For cleaning the shower (and basins etc) both at home and in the van, we use one of the citrus sprays (Septone) which removes calcium and soap scum but is not harsh on surfaces. It also makes chrome surfaces bright and shiny. Spray on, give a good rub over with a wet cloth which has some citrus cleaner on it, and rinse well, and then dry off. Good luck, Bas
  13. Hi Tony and Nev I must be very fortunate because when I mention to my wife that I would like her to be involved in an ON-OFF activity, she knows that that means helping to bleed the brakes. I have just had the front pads changed by a Toyota dealer on my 100 series meaning I got 160,000 in total from the original and second set. The rears have only been changed once. I notice that the new fronts have much more brake dust than the previous sets. Tony the new Bendix pads you have had fitted are probably the low dust ones Bendix is now selling. I have never had a complaint about the 100's brakes. They are always confidence providing. Regards, Barry
  14. Hi Maree and Peter Over a year ago, I raised pressurising the van as a way of preventing or reducing dust ingress however, there was little or no interest in the method. I had seen a custom-built van with an air cleaner on it and the owner explained a bilge venting fan was used to suck through the air cleaner and into the van to pressurise it. It worked a treat for him and see no reason why it would not be a viable and permanent method of stopping the dreaded dust coming in, as an alternative to taping up vents, and using foam etc etc etc. The bilge fans draw very little electricity. Regards Barry
  15. Hi Reece My wife mixes up a very effective ant killer which includes borax, but she suggests googling for the recipe as we are at Elliott Heads at the moment and can't recall the quantities. It solidifies fairly quickly once in the open air so you need to replace it regularly. It is best stored in the fridge and will last a long time in a sealed container. Regards barry
  16. Hi to all The gas struts on the left side front boot suddenly got a bit tired (don't we all?) and it was not a practical alternative to use my head to hold the lid up. When installing a lift up bed base in a Golf we previously owned, I phoned Golf and spoke to one of the original owners of the business, about strut lengths and pressures etc. He was more than happy to help, and advised me to visit Sentry Lincoln at Acacia Ridge (Cahill 3244 3244) to source the struts. The price I bought them for from Sentry was far less than other quotes I had obtained. So I toddled off to Sentry to see about some replacement boot struts and bought two for under $25. They are 5mm longer (330mm rather than 325mm, are the correct pressure, have a slightly bigger shaft, and the attaching ball/nut of the old ones can be removed and easily and fitted into the new struts. Cheers Barry
  17. Hi to all To provide some clarity to the issue of the tow vehicle being registered in one state and the van etc being registered in another state, I rang Queensland Transport to find out what applies as far as Compulsory Third Party is concerned. The person I spoke to had no hesitation in saying that as far as it applies to Queensland, the tow and towed vehicle must be registered in the same state, as it is illegal for it to be otherwise and the CTP insurance would not apply. He suspects that it is the same for other states. There could be exceptions where one of the two is under hire etc but it would be necessary to check with the hirer. Perhaps somebody might like to check with the transport departments in other states. The few dollars saved on rego might be small compared with the cost in the case of a prang. Regards Barry
  18. Hi Steve and Kez My impression from the service rep was that it is a bit of a mixture of plastic related age and the vehicle working hard, and of course he threw in that only Toyota coolant should be used and that service schedules must be observed. As the incidence of radiator top tank failures appears to be greater than thought, have the failures all occurred with van-towing Cruisers? Whether towing the van on a hot day up a long steep hill, or travelling on the flat on a cool day without the van, the temp of my Cruiser is the same according to the gauge. When is hot, hot? Has anybody other than Nev had a radiator failure? Regards Barry
  19. G'day Neville I had our 2003 100 series turbo diesel with approx. 150,000 kms in for a service the other day, and I had requested a coolant drain/flush/change. When picking up the vehicle, I mentioned the circumstances you encountered, I suggested to the service rep that this would be an isolated instance with this model. I was staggered when he replied that it was far from rare. When I queried as to how it might be possible to be pre-warned that the top tank might be on the way out, he advised it was not possible. Short of changing the radiator when all is going well, there is no way to avert what happened to you. Perhaps Toyota should alert owners as to the possibility. A non genuine radiator with metal tanks might be a better option. There has been recent forum discussion about Silverados, 200s 100s etc etc. My 100 series used to struggle a bit towing the ATV but a custom made 3" exhaust system fixed that and 6 ks per litre can easily be achieved even when cruising at the legal limit. With regard to suspension upgrade to increase the AGM for the 100 series, ARB, TJM and others do not provide one as it is not regarded as being necessary, whereas the 200 series has such little load margin and therefore an increase is readily available through any number of after-market suspension specialists. My 100 has rear air bags which I never inflate beyond 15 psi, and heavier rear springs, and the front torsion bars have been wound up to compensate for the slight increase in rear ride height. The vehicle handles like a sports car. Regards Barry
  20. Hi folks I have tried a BEST filter but ditched it when I noticed black particles coming from it, and it was not that old. I then modified an under-sink double filter which I used to filter the water going into the tanks, as well as for the mains pressure water. And of course the water from the drinking water outlet on the sink was filtered by the filter under the sink in the van, so it was filtered into and from the drinking water tank. I then got to thinking about the need to put the water for the house tanks through a filter when it is only used for washing up and showering etc. As well, the flow/pressure of water going through the double filter was restricted. The only water needed to be filtered is what you drink. With a bit of replumbing, mains pressure water for house use remains unfiltered but drinking water is filtered by the filter under the sink. The same applies to tank water. The Alpine snap on type filters are available from Aqua Fresh at Michelton and they will post free to anywhere. Regards Barry
  21. Hi Steve and Kez To the best of my knowledge, the only way of knowing if an anode needs replacing is by screwing it out and inspecting it. It is amazing just how quickly they can deteriorate. Prior to going to Woodgate for a month recently, the one in the HW tank was in fairly good condition. Out of interest, I pulled it out last week when we returned. Apart from all of the white crud that came out of the tank when the anode was withdrawn, I was surprised to see that the anode had corroded down to its central rod for part of its length. So, it has been replaced. Regards Barry
  22. Hi all The steps by steps in the link are a good guide however, I believe it is wise to flush the tank before screwing in the new, or old, anode. I use a hose to squirt water into the tank via the anode hole a few times, letting it drain out between flushes. It is amazing how much gunk comes out. Anode replacement is a safe procedure as long as you put the brain in gear before you start, which is what a few of us have failed to do! Cheers, Bas
  23. Hi all The steps by steps in the link are a good guide however, I believe it is wise to flush the tank before screwing in the anode, or old, anode. I use a hose to squirt water into the tank via the anode hole a few times, letting it drain out between flushes. It is amazing how much gunk comes out. Anode replacement is a safe procedure as long as you put the brain in gear before you start, which is what a few of us have failed to do! Cheers, Bas
  24. Hi Brian I thought I was in a club of one so sort of pleased to hear that others too have forgot to bleed of the pressure first. In my case, I was a bit baffled as to why the anode was hard to unscrew even with the socket and of course it was the load on the thread. The anode shot out and hit the paling fence a couple of metres away with some force but brushed my side as it went past. Thankfully, it was just a brush. But there is a positive side to this, and that is that it helps to expel a lot of the white gunk in the heater, although there was still a fair bit to be flushed out. We can be sure we will not let this happen again. Barry
  25. Our ATV (purchased second hand) has a slow-draining basin, and had water and gunk come up the shower drain when the sink was emptied. Even putting the plug in the shower did not work. The shower problem was solved by replumbing so that the shower drains independently of the basin and sink. I made up a Y push-on fitting to connect to a single drain hose so that there is only one drain hose required. However, the slow-draining basin has not been solved and no amount of flushing with hot water, cleaner etc has helped. I recall mentioning it to Tom and he believed that that is the way the basins are. Without removing the basin etc, a major job I suspect, it is not possible to access the piping from where it leaves the basin to where it can be accessed outside. If someone knows how to get to the internal piping easily, I'd love to know. I suspect that the internal piping develops a kink as a result of the basin hingeing up. Regards, Barry
  • Create New...